Minimum down payment
Credit score for 3.5% down
Score for 10% down option
Years helping buyers qualify
I talk to a lot of buyers who assume FHA is a last resort — something you use when nothing else works. That's not how I see it at all. FHA is a well-designed program that intentionally serves buyers who are creditworthy and ready to own a home, but who haven't had the runway to save a large down payment or who've had some credit challenges along the way.
Life happens. Medical bills. Divorce. A period of unemployment. None of that means you shouldn't be able to buy a home. FHA guidelines recognize that, and so do I. My job is to look at your full picture — not just a number — and figure out the best path forward.
What I want every FHA buyer to understand going in is that there are costs specific to this loan type, particularly the mortgage insurance premiums. I'll explain exactly how those work, what they add to your monthly payment, and at what point it might make sense to refinance into a conventional loan down the road. No surprises. No fine print you find out about at closing.
"I want to give you more education and give you options and let you make the decision. That's been my approach for 30 years - and it doesn't change just because the loan type is different."
With a credit score of 580 or above, you can buy a home with just 3.5% down — significantly less than most conventional loan options. On a $350,000 home, that's about $12,250.
FHA is more forgiving on credit than conventional loans. Scores as low as 580 qualify for the 3.5% down option, and scores between 500 and 579 may still qualify with 10% down.
FHA allows for a higher debt-to-income ratio than most conventional programs, which can make a real difference for buyers carrying student loans or other monthly obligations.
Your entire down payment can come from a gift from a family member — something conventional loans restrict more tightly. If family wants to help, FHA makes that easier.
FHA loans can often be paired with Washington State down payment assistance programs, which may cover all or part of your 3.5% — making homeownership even more accessible.
Because FHA loans are government-backed, lenders take on less risk — which often translates to competitive interest rates, even for buyers with less-than-perfect credit.
| Feature | FHA Loan | Conventional |
|---|---|---|
| Minimum down payment | 3.5% | 3-5%+ |
| Minimum credit score | 580 (3.5% down) | 620-640 typical |
| Mortgage insurance | Required (upfront + annual) | Required under 20% down |
| MI removal | 11 years (10%+ down) or refi | Removed at 20% equity |
| Gift funds for down payment | 100% allowed | Partially allowed |
| Debt-to-income flexibility | More flexible | Stricter limits |
| Loan limits | Set by HUD annually | Conforming limit |
Every situation is different. I'll run both scenarios with your actual numbers so you can see which one makes more sense for you specifically.
The one thing I always make sure FHA buyers fully understand before we go any further is mortgage insurance — specifically how FHA's version works, because it's different from conventional PMI. It's not a deal-breaker, but it's something you need to know going in.
A one-time premium equal to 1.75% of your base loan amount. On a $337,750 loan (after 3.5% down on a $350,000 home), that's about $5,911. It's typically rolled directly into your loan balance so you don't pay it out of pocket at closing.
An ongoing premium paid as part of your monthly payment. The rate depends on your loan amount, loan term, and down payment - typically ranging from 0.15% to 0.75% annually. I'll show you the exact number for your scenario.
FHA works well for a wide range of buyers. Here are some of the most common situations I see where FHA is the right starting point:
The FHA process is similar to conventional in most ways, with a few extra steps related to the government-backed nature of the loan. Here's how I walk buyers through it:
Credit, income, savings, debt. I want to understand where you are so I can tell you honestly whether FHA is the right fit, or whether another program might serve you better. No pressure either way.
I go through your credit report with you — not to judge, but to look for anything that could be improved before we apply. Sometimes a small adjustment moves your score enough to meaningfully change your options. I'll show you what's possible.
Before you commit to anything, I'll show you exactly what the upfront and annual MIP add to your costs, what your real monthly payment looks like, and at what point a future refinance to conventional might make sense. You'll know all of this before you sign anything.
As a broker, I have access to multiple FHA-approved lenders. I'll find the one whose rate and terms are best suited to your profile — not just the first one that says yes.
FHA appraisal and underwriting
FHA appraisals have specific property condition requirements — the home needs to meet certain standards. I'll make sure you and your realtor know what to expect so nothing holds up the process.
Clear to close — and a plan for what's next
Once we close, the conversation doesn't end. I'll help you think through when it makes sense to revisit refinancing to a conventional loan to eliminate MIP — whether that's two years from now or five.
No — that's one of the most common misconceptions. FHA loans are available to any eligible buyer, first-time or not. The program does have a rule that it must be used for a primary residence, but there's no requirement that it's your first home purchase.
A score of 580 or above qualifies you for the 3.5% down option. Scores between 500 and 579 may still qualify, but with a 10% down payment requirement. If you're below 580, let's talk — there may be things we can do to move that number before we apply.
Yes, and this is one of the most powerful combinations available to Washington State buyers. Many DPA programs are specifically designed to work alongside FHA financing. I'll check what you qualify for and show you how the two work together.
Not necessarily. If you put 10% or more down, FHA annual MIP drops off after 11 years. If you put less than 10% down, MIP stays for the life of the loan — but many buyers refinance to a conventional loan once they've built 20% equity, which eliminates MIP entirely. I'll help you think through the timeline that makes sense for your situation.
It depends heavily on your credit score. If your score is above 680 or so and you have 5% down, conventional might actually cost you less once you factor in MIP. If your score is in the 580–640 range, FHA is usually the better deal. I'll run both scenarios side by side with your actual numbers so you can see exactly where the math lands.
Yes — FHA loan limits are set by HUD and vary by county. In higher-cost counties like King County, the limits are higher than the national baseline. I'll tell you the exact limit for wherever you're looking to buy.
Yes — I'm licensed throughout Washington and work with buyers in the greater Tacoma and Lakewood area, Spokane, and everywhere in between. Wherever you're buying, let's talk about whether FHA is the right fit.
Let's find out together. A straight conversation about your credit, your savings,
and your goals is all it takes to know which direction makes the most sense —
no pressure, no obligation.
John P. Cobain · NMLS #374881 · Edge Home Finance · Washington State Licensed Mortgage Broker


